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Chris Militzer/Miliman12 Photography
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Chris Militzer/Miliman12 Photography
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Chris Militzer/Miliman12 Photography
Possibly the most popular attraction in the Greenbrier Valley of West Virginia is its namesake resort, The Greenbrier. Not to overlook this fine property, but after learning that United Airlines had launched direct service between Greenbrier County and Chicago O’Hare, as well as Dulles Airport, I thought surely there must be more going on the valley than meets the eye
This lead me to the discovery that the Greenbrier County town of Lewisburg has been named one of the top 100 Best Small Arts Towns in America as well as America’s Coolest Small Town by Frommer’s Budget Travel Magazine.
That’s a lofty title, so I wanted to see just what makes this town of just 4,000 people so cool. Despite the new addition of a quick United Airlines flight out of Dulles, I was looking forward to a scenic drive through the mountains, so I took advantage of Alexandria Living Magazine’s partnership with General Motors and hopped into a 2019 Chevy Traverse with so much technology packed into it, that United plane would blush with envy.
As luck would have it, the route to Lewisburg was hit with a snow and ice storm as I left, and then freezing fog while I was visiting, making my All Wheel Drive sleigh an even wiser choice for the trip. The mountain terrain along this drive really is a sight to behold, and other than a stretch along the dreaded I-81, the trip is quite smooth and easy. (Gazing out of the window at the beauty along the way did cause the Traverse’s lane departure warning to nudge me back in line once or twice, I must admit.)
The Historic General Lewis Inn
Believe it or not, there is more than one place to stay in the Greenbrier Valley. Of course I’m being sarcastic, but hearing so much about The Greenbrier itself, I was shocked that more people don’t know about The Historic General Lewis Inn in Lewisburg.
The 1834 and 1928 buildings are set right at the end of the main street through town and walkable to pretty much everything you’d want to do. While it was too cold to admire all of the beautiful grounds outside, recent renovations have really added to the charm of this boutique hotel. generallewisinn.com
Small things stood out and really added up, from the beautiful bottle of spring water in the room, the old school brass key fobs, to the coffee service carts right outside your room in the morning. The owners have gone above and beyond to provide their guests with a comfortable home away from home, and pay attention to these small details. For example, after leaving my room to explore the cut from a Hallmark Christmas movie main street, I sloppily left my phone charger cord across the bed as most of us do. Returning in the evening, I found my cable neatly coiled, and tied with a decorative ribbon, something I have never had happen and was definitely appreciated.
The Inn also has an amazing dining area on site, using local ingredients and providing the diner with names of the farms you’ll be eating from. For brunch, I had the shrimp and grits with an egg, one of the best and most unique versions I’ve had of this favorite dish of mine. Conveniently, there is also the Thistle Lounge just off the lobby, serving craft cocktails containing spirits from the local distillery, Smooth Ambler, as well as beers from Greenbrier Valley Brewing Company.
This is a highly recommended stop before venturing out. The drinks are great, and watching them being created is a show itself. The homemade flavored bitters such as black pepper, lavender and rosemary are unique and delicious, but the friendly conversation between everyone in the lounge area was really something to enjoy. Again, one of those small details that made this place special.
The Arts Scene
For a town of just 4,000 people, Lewisburg has a shockingly artsy and cosmopolitan vibe. Boasting one of only four Carnegie Halls in the world, in addition to the Greenbrier Valley Theater, this small town attracts world class performances. While there, I caught a comedic version of the Complete Works of Shakespeare. Afterwards, the nightlife of the town is just a few steps away, making it a convenient continuation of date night if one so desired.
There are also no less than five galleries in town, full of fine art, photography (my favorite), jewelry, handmade furniture, and fine crafts. Again, a remarkable amount for such a small population, lending even more credit to their culture card.
BEVERAGES
Smooth Ambler. Born from an idea conceived on a flight and written in the margin of a magazine, this world class distillery has some delicious whiskey products coming out the door and an obscene amount of fun going on inside. The enjoyment that everyone there gets from their job is contagious and really makes their tasting and tour worth the visit to just outside of town. If you’ve ever been interested in seeing all that goes into making a high quality whiskey, this is a stop that can’t be missed. smoothambler.com
Greenbrier Valley Brewing Company. Conveniently located just across the road from Smooth Ambler is Greenbrier Valley Brewing Company. The brewery/taproom houses a fairly large 3-vessel, 17-barrel brew house with 640-barrel fermentation capacity. In other words, they make a lot of beer. With beer names that are themed around West Virginia legends and mythology such as The Mothman, the tasty beverages are served in a taproom built with salvaged pallets and bourbon barrels from Smooth Ambler that will remind you of hanging out in a friend’s basement as a teen. But one where you can play cornhole and disc golf inside! gvbeer.com
DINING
Stardust Cafe. A fun cafe run by the same family as the General Lewis Inn, provid-ing equally great attention to detail. Well made sandwiches and salads for lunch, with elevated items like lamb burgers and braised pork shank for dinners. stardustcafewv.com Food and Friends. Casual yet upscale food with steaks, chops, seafood and pas-tas on the menu. Steaks are cut on site and have been featured on The Food Network’s “Best of…” series. After tasting the whiskey ribeye with caramelized onions and bourbon glaze, I can tell you why! foodandfriendslewisburgwv.com
Del Sol Cantina. An enthusiastic crowd was around the lively bar watching WVU sports while I was there. Add in unique specialty pizzas, and Tex-Mex food with typical bar food standards to enjoy as well. facebook.com/DelSolCantinaGrille
Livery Tavern. This definitely embodies the look of a true tavern, with dark woods, exposed beams and hearty, meaty dishes. The fireplace was not only welcome for the ambiance but also the heat on a cold evening. Excellent cocktails and fall-off-the-bone chops made for a happy, full belly on a winter night. liverytavern.com
The French Goat. A casual French Bistro in somewhat rural West Virginia with an over-the-top Bloody Mary, my meal included tater tots and bacon, served with seared pork belly, poached eggs, Anson Mills grits and wilted greens. Did I mention this town has surprises? The dinner menu has other treats such as crispy duck and charred short rib, leading me to plan a return trip. thefrenchgoat.com
OTHER THINGS TO DO
Greenbrier Valley Trail and River. A 78-mile trail along a former railroad line that follows the Greenbrier river, it’s the longest trail such as this in the state of West Virginia, crossing 35 bridges and rolling through many towns along the way. While you might not make it that far, you don’t need too long of a journey along this easy, walkable path to take in the gorgeous river views and more than a few small waterfalls along the way.
Shopping. Along with shops carrying local craft work, fine arts, jewelry, there are antiques, specialty wines and beers, and glassware. There is also an excellent outfitter that carries everything you need for the outdoors such as backpack-ing gear, kayaks and fly fishing equipment. Keep your eyes open on the way to Smooth Ambler and Greenbrier Valley Brewing and you might see a beef jerky outlet that carries beef, turkey, deer, and wild boar jerkies.
Walking Tours. Looking to burn off all these meals and drinks? There is also a nicely laid out, self-guided walking tour of town, showcasing the many historical elements of town such as Confederate Cemeteries, Carnegie Hall, historic homes and other buildings.
All kidding aside, I was really pleasantly surprised by Lewisburg. I went look-ing to see what made this the coolest small town and what I found was a very worldly place in what I incorrectly assumed would be a typically sheltered rural mountain area.
In Lewisburg, I found a place that would be great for a couples weekend, full of fine dining, and maybe catching a show or doing a little shopping, but it would also be a good spot for a few friends to do a little hiking, catch some live music, and grab some drinks.
