As the rollout of vaccines this spring begins to return our lives to normal, travel is on a lot of people's minds. An easy trip that will make you feel like you're truly getting away is just down the road in Loudoun County, about an hour's drive from Alexandria.
A recent trip to Middleburg's horse and wine country to celebrate my daughter Kate's new job started with lattes and breakfast sandwiches at Middleburg Common Grounds at 114 W. Washington St., (the town's "Main Street") in the heart of town. We found a table on the front porch overlooking Washington Street, where there is plenty of people-watching to be had.
Established in 1787, the town got its name because of its location midway between Alexandria and Winchester on the Ashby Gap trading route (now known as Route 50).
Ax-Throwing 101
From the coffee shop, we headed to an ax-throwing and archery lesson just a few minutes drive at the luxe Salamander Resort & Spa at 500 N. Pendleton St. There is easy parking and a few minutes walk into the lobby and down the elevator where we met our instructor at the fitness center. From there we walked out back to the rolling hills and woods (the resort sits on 340 acres) where we spent the next couple of hours having a blast hitting balloons, targets and bales of hay with our axes and arrows.
There are safer activities there for younger children, including horseback-riding lessons, zip lines (OK for ages 7 and up and there's also a "Kiddo Zip" for ages 4-7) and toasting s'mores around a bonfire.
We went for a hike afterward through the woods and around the fishing pond and explored the grounds and a former barn now used for events like rehearsal dinners. Be sure to also make time to stop by the stable on the property to see the beautiful horses.
Oyster Options
Next up was lunch in Middleburg at the King Street Oyster Bar, which is housed in a former bank building built in 1924, at 1 E. Washington St. There was a bit of a wait but we didn't mind strolling around the block checking out a number of boutiques like The Fun Shop, a small-town variety store which opened in 1956 and is still run by the same family and Créme de La Créme (a pretty pricey spot specializing in pottery, linens and candles) and Nature Composed, a charming garden shop at the corner of Pendleton and Federal streets.
We sat at an outdoor table and tried the Grilled Salmon Salad and Tuna Tacos with a glass of Chardonnay. Both were stupendous. Next time, we'll try the Rockefeller Oysters or Charbroiled Oysters (they offer at least 10 different kinds).
Other lunch options around town include the Red Fox Inn & Tavern at 2 E. Washington St. (the oldest building in town dating back to 1728) and the Red Horse Tavern, 118 W. Washington St. for more casual dining. Both offer outdoor seating — Red Fox Tavern has a patio out back and Red Horse Tavern's outdoor seating fronts Middleburg's main street.
After lunch we headed to the National Sporting Library & Museum, at 102 The Plains Road, home to dozens of sculptures and images of horses as well as a library. We got a chance to see some interesting books in the F. Ambrose Clark Rare Books Room, including several featuring fore-edge paintings (decorations painted on the closed edges of a book's pages). The library also houses an original hand-written manuscript about fox-hunting by a then-28 year old Theodore Roosevelt. Each September, the library and museum holds the Polo Classic at Great Meadow in The Plains, a key fundraiser.
Blazing Fire Pits, Starry Nights
We headed back to the Salamander Resort to check in, enjoying the cozy lobby and views of the patio and lawns. Valet parking is available but self-parking is an easy walk. The 168-room hotel includes rooms for those traveling with pets — we saw quite a few people walking their dogs on hikes around the property. We really enjoyed the view from our room's outdoor balcony (each room has a balcony or patio).
The resort offers free Wifi, a spa, fitness center, an indoor pool, the Gold Cup Wine Bar and Harrimans Virginia Piedmont Grill. The resort's outdoor pools are open May through September — the spa pool is more luxurious but you have to book a spa service in order to use it.
We enjoyed dinner at Harrimans on the patio, where we had a beautiful view of the lawn and some blazing fire pits. The meal and service were impeccable. Afterward, we enjoyed a glass of wine by the fire while checking out the stars on a clear night. Even if you're not staying at the resort, you should try to fit in a night at Harrimans if you're planning a trip to Loudoun County.
Other hotel options in Middleburg include the Red Fox Inn, the Goodstone Inn and Briar Patch Bed & Breakfast Inn.
Fruit of the Vine
With about 40 wineries in the county, it can get confusing trying to decide which ones to visit. Visit Loudoun has grouped the wineries into six clusters, making it easier to plan ahead. They also have maps. You can see those here: https://www.visitloudoun.org/stay/
Just up the road from Middleburg is 868 Vineyards, which won the top prize last year at the 38th Annual Virginia Wineries Association Governor's Cup wine competition with its 2017 Vidal Blanc Passito. The winery is located in Hillsboro, about a 40-minute drive north of Middleburg and features live music on weekends starting May 1.
If you want to stick closer to Middleburg, there are seven wineries in the "Mosby Cluster," named for John Mosby Highway aka Route 50. As you drive from winery to winery you'll pass scenic horse farms, stacked stone fences and manicured estates. Be sure to check each winery website for more information about hours and policies due to the pandemic. The Mosby Cluster consists of:
- 50 West Vineyards, 39060 John Mosby Hwy.
- Boxwood Estate Winery, 2042 Burrland Lane
- Cana Vineyards and Winery of Middleburg, 38600 John Mosby Hwy.
- Chrysalis Vineyards, 39025 John Mosby Hwy.
- Greenhill Winery & Vineyards, 23595 Winery Lane
- Quattro Goomba's Winery, 22860 James Monroe Hwy.
- Fleetwood Farm Winery, 23075 Evergreen Mills Road