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Chris Militzer
In just about an hour and a half, you can be sitting on a sandy beach, looking at palm trees, smelling the salt air and ordering your next Orange Crush from the tiki bar. Sounds too good to be true, but welcome to Colonial Beach, Virginia.
Once called the “Playground of the Potomac,” for decades Colonial Beach was a wildly popular site for people from D.C. and the surrounding area to vacation during the summer months. Located on Virginia’s Northern Neck about 60 miles from both D.C. and Richmond, it offered welcome relief for families during those hot times.
During its heyday, several steamboat operators ran massive ships ferrying thousands of people back and forth several times a week to this cottage-filled beach resort town. Later, in the 1950s, as slot machines were legalized in Charles County, Maryland, several piers were built out into the waters of the Potomac to house gambling operations. They had names like Jackpot, Monte Carlo and Reno and were filled at all hours of the day due to the relaxed Maryland drinking laws of the time, and the lure of a quick payday. This was all made possible by the fact that once you cross the low water mark of Virginia’s shoreline, you are now in Charles County, Maryland.
However, the original draws to the area, and the ones that still endure, are the salt water, sandy beaches and completely relaxed nature of this town. Colonial Beach is home to the second-longest beach in Virginia, voted in 2018 as the best beach in Virginia by USA Today. Surrounded by the salty, six-mile wide Potomac River and Monroe Bay, the town offers both spectacular sunrises and sunsets depending on your location.
From Northern Virginia, this can easily be an affordable day trip for the family if you just have a need for a quick beach day. There is public parking located at the beach, a beach shop just off the boardwalk and food trucks available for iced drinks and meals.
However, I’d recommend looking into one of the cottages or bed and breakfasts available and stay a while longer. Another fun tip, Colonial Beach is a golf cart town. With all speed limits being just 25 mph, golf carts have been made street legal here and it’s the perfect way to cruise around from spot to spot. The area is filled with customized carts and rentals, and it definitely adds to the laid back fun (plus the kids love it).
BOATING
Being located on a peninsula bordering the Potomac and Monroe Bay, 35 nautical miles from the Chesapeake Bay makes this the perfect spot for all water sports. There are 10 marinas available, accommodating all sizes of vessels and its a convenient place to take a break if traveling from the Alexandria area on the way to the Bay.
There is also a beautiful brand-new public boat ramp, complete with a concrete bottom if you are launching a trailered boat. One common theme I found in visiting several of the marinas was how well-maintained they were. Docks were all in good repair, lines properly coiled, everything was just right. It’s clear that the town pride extends to their marine traditions.
The Boathouse Marina - Beautiful, well-kept slips and helpful, friendly owners. Can’t beat the local knowledge here!
Colonial Beach Yacht Center - Can host vessels up to 130 feet, fuel dock, marine repairs, restaurant on site, and I highly recommend a kayak rental from here!
Bayside Marina - Close to downtown and beach, very walkable to restaurants. Beautiful views and sunsets!
GETTING THERE
One of the things that was responsible for a period of decline for Colonial Beach was the development of the highway system. Once it became so easy for people to drive longer distances, they chose to drive further out to Ocean City, Bethany and the Outer Banks for their vacations for their vacations. Ironically, those same roads that once offered the freedom to get away from the hustle of the city now offer endless frustration and traffic jams as everyone clogs them with the same destination in mind.
While you can take 95 South to head in the direction of Colonial Beach, I chose to head over to Maryland and make the 60-mile trek by way of 301, arriving frustration-free and ready to relax in about an hour and a half. Of course, you can take the previously mentioned boat route as well, or if you have the means you can arrive by seaplane and land in Monroe Bay like a group of several planes did.
LODGING
Colonial Beach Plaza - 1900s Victorian Bed and Breakfast with a beautiful Carriage House available for families. Expect complimentary wine tastings and craft beer to welcome you, afternoon appetizers and delicious breakfasts. A heated pool and poolside cabana with fireplace are a relaxing spot to grab a drink and unwind when you don’t feel up to the beach or tiki bars. However, the beach is just a block away when you’re ready.
River View Inn - 1940s motel restored to its original retro neon glory.
Cottages - More than 50 cottages are available around town on both the bay side or riverfront if you prefer.
BEERS AND BEVERAGES
Despite being a town of just 2.6 miles, Colonial Beach is home to both a brewery and a winery, as well as two tiki bars. Clearly, they embrace the vacation mentality and know how to kick back! Both tiki bars also have great full-service food menus, and offer live beachfront music throughout the night.
Colonial Beach Brewing - Family-owned and run small-batch brewer offering a rotating variety of delicious beers. Housed in a former garage, they have already had to expand once to fit in their growing fan base. Pet-friendly patio, live music, large TVs and nice variety of tasty beverages makes a great place to spend some time when you come off the beach, a few blocks away. You can’t go wrong with the Hurricane Mitzi DIPA!
Monroe Bay Vineyard - Small farm winery and cidery located just off the beach. Winemaker Kiki Apple brought her love of fine wines from her home in the South of France to this quiet town, and this love is reflected in the products she makes. Relaxed and friendly tasting room and store front in town, with a beautiful straw-bale barn on Monroe Bay under construction now. Also, don’t miss Kiki’s crepes!!
Dockside Restaurant and Tiki Bar - Great food and tiki bar atmosphere with plenty of space to unwind with family and friends. Sandy beaches and plenty of room for the kids to play in the water and sand while mom and dad have an Orange Crush or two. Live music makes it even harder to leave this spot right at the point of the peninsula.
High Tides on the Potomac - Beachfront restaurant with a sandy tiki bar complete with live music and an outdoor grill. Fun spot to grab a drink and still be beachfront.
DINING
Denson’s Grocery and R&B Oyster Bar - Third-generation owned specialty market, and a true farm and bay-to-table restaurant that changes the menu based on what is the freshest available. Oysters grilled, fried or raw are some of the best in the state! Crab-stuffed shrimp, and stuffed soft shell crab is the best I‘ve ever tasted, along with tasty brussel sprouts and fried okra.
The Lighthouse - Located on Monroe Bay with some of the best sunsets around, folks come by water or land to try their delicious French or Thai cuisine. It’s a unique mix that just works! Whether you want shrimp fried rice, sauteed scallops or a grilled ribeye that stands up to any steak I’ve had around D.C., this place has you covered.
Tides Inn - Full course meals, breads, pizzas, lunches, soups and salads are all available from Culinary Institute of America graduate Caitlin Townsend. Whether you eat inside, on the patio watching live music or take it to go, you’re in for a treat here. Chicken salad stuffed avocado really wowed me!
OTHER THINGS TO DO
For such a small area, there really is a good amount to do in Colonial Beach. That being said, you don’t feel that you have to do it all. It’s a relaxing place with a small-town feel, people know each other and aren’t afraid to greet you and welcome you to town. You can easily sit on the beach and waste a day, and with the lack of big waves, you can feel safe letting your small children play by the water. Taking a kayak trip around Monroe Bay is highly recommended as it’s an easy paddle even for a novice like me, and the sights and wildlife really are worth the workout. There is also a museum where you can learn more about the fascinating Oyster Wars between Virginia and Maryland, and the casino culture of days gone by. Or, visit the Riverboat Casino built over the waters of Maryland for off-track betting and a meal as well.
Colonial Beach really is a gem waiting to be rediscovered. Whether for a day trip or a weekend, it’s a great change of pace from the rest of the Northern Virginia area.
Learn more about this area at www.visitcbva.com.