Photo courtesy of The Omni Homestead Resort
Cheers! Winemaking traditions of France have a positive impact on the way modern wine is made in Virginia.
From the earliest days of colonial Virginia, the French have exerted an outsized influence on winemaking, a tradition that continues centuries later in vineyards and cellars across the Commonwealth.
A recent discussion among Virginia winemakers with French connections highlighted how the continuing influence of the established winemaking traditions of France are having a positive impact on the way modern wine is made in Virginia.
Photo courtesy of The Omni Homestead
Keep an eye out for wine events hosted at Omni Homestead Resort in Hot Springs, Va.
Wine has been produced in Virginia, with varying degrees of success, since colonists began arriving in Jamestown. By the 1700s, the French were influencing the way it was made as Huguenot immigrants produced wine and brandy. Then in 1770, the General Assembly underscored that influence when it designated Frenchman Andrew Estave as winemaker and viticulturist for Virginia.
But the biggest impact would come from Thomas Jefferson and his well-known affinity for French wines, which led him to plant vines at Monticello in his quest to establish winemaking in Virginia.
The French Effect: Helping the Wine Industry Flourish
Photo courtesy of Omni Homestead Resort
Wine samples ready for tasting at The Omni Homestead Resort in Hot Springs.
While Jefferson’s viticulture attempts were not successful at the time, his efforts — and even his enthusiasm — helped plant a seed that is now bearing fruit in Virginia’s burgeoning wine industry.
“Our journey into the world of wine pays homage to the pioneering efforts of Thomas Jefferson, whose determination to grow grapes in the Commonwealth laid the foundation for the rich relationship between Virginia and French wines,” said Mark Spadoni, managing director of the Omni Homestead Resort in Hot Springs.
The Homestead, which regularly showcases Virginia wines and winemakers, recently hosted its third annual Epicurean Classic, a three-day event that focused on France’s vinicultural influence on Virginia winemaking.
The French influence on winemaking is everywhere. Wines can be made in French styles and aged in French oak. France is the birthplace of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, and of course Champagne. And those are just a few famous varieties, before you even get to the French hybrid varieties.
With all that history in mind, six top Virginia winemakers with connections to France gathered to discuss how their backgrounds affect the way they make wine — and why they chose to stay in Virginia.
The Winemakers: Part of a Movement
Mattheiu Finot came to Virginia in 2003. “I was supposed to be here for six months, and I’m still here,” he joked. He is the winemaker at King Family Vineyards in Crozet as well as at the nearby Domaine Finot Turk Mountain Vineyards.
Each of the five winemakers who came to the U.S. from France shared a similar story — coming as students or for a short stay, but ending up planting roots in Virginia. That was the case for Julien Durantie, winemaker at DuCard Vineyards in Etlan, who came to the central Virginia winery as an intern in 2007, originally planning to return to his family’s vineyard in Bordeaux.
These winemakers have spent time at wineries throughout France and various other countries. Benoit Pineau, the winemaker at Pollak Vineyards in Greenwood, even worked at a winery in Napa Valley. But all found their way back to the Virginia countryside.
“There was a movement, something that was happening,” Finot explained. They each spoke about how the Virginia wine community fostered a sense of collaboration, sharing ideas and knowledge, and sometimes labor and supplies, in the common goal of creating a world-class wine region.
They agreed that atmosphere differs from the centuries-old traditions of France, where winemaking is long established, and they all cited the camaraderie as appealing.
Another difference is that wine production in France is highly regulated — meaning specific grapes in specific regions to produce specific wines. While that may ensure a quality product, it doesn’t encourage the kind of creativity these winemakers enjoy.
“What I like about Virginia is that you can play here,” said Katell Griaud, winemaker at Slater Run Vineyards in Upperville and Gabriele Rausse Winery in Charlottesville.
In the ancient context of winemaking, Virginia’s modern industry is still young and experimental, as producers seek to find the best grape varieties, planting locations, and winemaking techniques. For a winemaker, that can be both fun and educational as it translates into the opportunity to develop knowledge and experience.
“Here it is a blank page,” said Damien Blanchon, winemaker at Afton Mountain Vineyards in Afton.
The Wines: The Best of Both Worlds
Each panelist brought wines so the audience could compare those made in Virginia with those made in France. The results underscored that Virginia has earned its place on the world’s wine map.
Michael Shaps, an American who has studied extensively in France, brought two Chardonnays — one made at his Michael Shaps Wineworks in Charlottesville and one made at Maison Shaps, his winery in Burgundy.
“When I take this wine to France, people can’t tell this is from Virginia,” he said. Those in the audience agreed the Virginia wine was “more Burgundian than the Burgundian wine.”
The wines also included Cabernet Franc, a variety widely grown in Virginia that originated in France. The audience tasted Cab Franc as a single varietal and as part of Bordeaux-style blends, often incorporating Petite Verdot and/or Tannat, a style that can be readily found at wineries throughout the state.
The panel was asked whether Virginia has a specific style — like a Bordeaux or a Burgundy or a Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. While the style of the Old Dominion is still evolving, the panelists agreed, it’s developing specific characteristics.
“We’re somewhere between the Old World and the New World,” said Finot. “We have more Old World style than what you’ll find on the West Coast.” And winemakers are continuing to learn the best ways to work with Virginia’s terroir, he added, citing the French term for how a region’s climate, soil, and terrain affect the taste of the wine.
The biggest stamp of approval for how French style has influenced winemaking in Virginia came in 2024 when the owners of Château Montrose, a famed Bordeaux winery, purchased what was then RdV Vineyards. Now renamed Lost Mountain Vineyards, it’s located near Delaplane in the Northern Virginia wine region and focuses on Bordeaux-style blends.
Frank Morgan, a wine writer who serves as director of judging for the Virginia Governor’s Cup competition, said the work of the winemakers on the panel has helped establish that Virginia can make world-class wines.
“These folks here brought a much-needed Old World sensibility to the Commonwealth of Virginia and the Virginia wine industry,” he said, “and I think that Old World sensibility is what drives quality.”
