“A Table Down The Street” follows Howie Southworth, author of A Taste of Alexandria, one local barstool at a time. No reviews. Only encounters. The bartender chasing perfection, the chef with a story, the regular who swears this place was better before you found it. Food and drink may be the excuse. People are the point. A corner seat can tell you everything.
The heft of weathered wood and glass is a welcome portal from the season's suddenly crisp air. And even before my eyes adjust, I can feel the warmth, the low murmur of afternoon voices, the clink of pint glasses still half-full, the familiar scrape of a barstool. Chadwicks doesn’t rely on theatrics, it leans on something better. Familiarity, the kind you feel before you even sit down. A true local joint somehow perched in the heart of tourism central, tucked around a bend on the waterfront where a block away, sidewalks carry lucky visitors and guides in tricorn hats. But inside, the uniforms are different: Municipal staffers, office escapees, celebrants of a late-lunch, a few who simply belong.
Karen is behind the bar. Everyone already knew she would be. She’s the sort of bartender who notices things, the quiet refill, the knowing smile, the slight lean toward the regular who doesn’t need to ask for the usual. I take a barstool. Beside me is Collin and beside him, Ryan. The former a public works guy, literally on-call, his phone buzzing. There’s a storm coming that will bring him to work tomorrow at 4 a.m. Collin shrugs. That’s life. The latter sits with no pronouncement of career or origin story. Doesn’t matter. He’s a regular and that’s credential enough.
A couple of fried chicken sandwiches land for my new neighbors, and suddenly this part of the bar is a conversation. A third, clearly another regular, sidles up and mentions office politics that have already absorbed his entire morning. His barber fed him sandwiches earlier, he says, so he’s skipping lunch. The logic holds, somehow. The Old Town Batch, a twist on an Old Fashioned, arrives in front of me with a single massive ice orb that glistens like the Potomac on this late afternoon, pleased with itself.
The third guy departs to deal with his office drama, and the remaining duo recounts a story about a drunk raccoon somewhere deeper in Virginia, discovered passed out in a liquor store restroom. “Gotta love a trash panda,” Ryan says, and by polite proximity invites me into the tale. “Still, one hell of a night for a raccoon,” I layer on. We laugh. Be well, trash panda.
Ryan leans back, nods toward the kitchen. “Good food,” he says, “but it’s the people that make it.” And with that, he quietly eats chicken and sings along to a soft-edged '80s stream. Whether George, Tiffany, Bono, it hardly matters. Low enough to be personal, loud enough for Karen to grin without looking up from her shaker. Regulars come with their own soundtrack.
It’s absurdly easy to forget that this entire corner was once a seafaring nucleus for Alexandria, that tall-masted ships once ruled these blocks. But then you look up. A dinghy hangs from the ceiling. Behind the bar, a mountain of helmets and caps form a kind of whimsical memorial, equal parts military artifact and wartime comedy. Brass plaques along the bar rail carry names and dates, tributes to regulars whose presence is felt whether they are here or not, probably judging us from the other side.
The bar fills and empties in rhythms unconnected to the tourist flow mere feet away. This is the timeless hour, post-lunch, pre-happy-hour, when locals take phone calls, send texts and lean into a pint or a midday martini. It’s 3:30 p.m. somewhere. Here, actually, and no one appears to be apologizing for it.
I order fried green tomatoes, crisp, lightly crumbed, atop a sweet bacon jam that gives just enough savory smirk. A creamy white sauce cools everything down, not quite blue cheese, but reminiscent of it, a softer, more polite cousin. A natural dish for this corner of the world, classic and fitting. Fishermen no longer unload a day’s catch here, but the sense of a working waterfront still clings to the walls and to the menu, like salt in the air that refuses to drift inland.
Ryan keeps singing. Collin checks his phone. Karen tops someone off. The doors swing, close, swing again, the tide of regulars ebbing and flowing.
Nothing here shouts for attention. Chadwicks speaks at a human volume, and that’s enough. That’s the point. In a neighborhood known for curated colonial façades and increasingly polished dining rooms, Chadwicks stands by a simpler truth. Locals gather here because they always have. Classic is classic for a reason.
And as I listen, really listen, I understand why my chat partners keep coming back. It’s not the fried chicken sandwiches, though one could tempt. It’s not even the Old Town Batch, crisp and cold against the slow melt of the ice sphere. It’s voices, layered like silt, public works, lunchtime escapees, lifelong regulars, raccoons and storms and barber sandwiches, all gradually forming the ground of a true Alexandria legend.
I finish the last bite of fried tomato and let the bourbon linger. Outside, the waterfront breathes life, a bustling Alexandria on display. But in here, with Karen behind the bar and someone humming another '80s track, the city reveals itself the way locals have always known it, one midday conversation at a time.
Howie Southworth is a seasoned denizen of Old Town Alexandria and the best-selling author behind "A Taste of Alexandria: Modern Restaurant Recipes That Echo Our City's Past."
His forthcoming book, "Hemingway's Spanish Table" will be released on March 17. Past works include "Chinese Street Food," "One Pan to Rule Them All," "Kiss My Casserole!" and "How to Cook Anything in Your Dutch Oven." Howie is also a regular essayist for Salon.com.
